These are punched and chiseled through the top plate and exit out the side of the anvil. The French kept the side exit hardie hole on some style anvils.Ī very small 1/2 - 5/8" (13 to 16 mm) side penetration hardy hole on an Later they were moved to the center line at the heel of English and American anvils and just at the horn on most European anvils. In early anvils the hardie hole was only about 1/2" square and sometimes placed at the side of the face of the anvil with the bottom curving out of the side of the anvil. These include, "bottom sets" with round grooves that match handled "top sets", fullers, forming tools and anything else the blacksmith finds convenient to put a square shank on to be supported on the anvil. Other tools with square shanks are also used in the hardie hole and are sometimes called "hardie tools". I’m sure that even once you acquire a commercial anvil with horn and hardy hole you will still use this one a lot.The hardy, or hardie, hole is the square hole in the top of a blacksmiths anvil designed to receive tooling such as a hardie.Ī hardie is a short heavy chisel that has a shoulder and a square shank to fit the square hole of the anvil. Whatever path you take, congratulations on s great new anvil. Some times you can find those hubs online as cheap as $5. Bolt it in place and you could actually have replaceable holders to fit any hardy shank size. Either weld them to heavy wall pipe, or find a heavy pipe the minor ID can fit in. It’s whole face is sweet spot, unlike any othe 110 lb anvil, especially a farriers model.Īlso if you want a hardy holder and you can weld, you can get chain sprocket hubs forsquare shafts with 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1 1/4” square bores. Lets say you paid $75 for the steel, and $125 for heat treating- you will have a fantastic, efficient (with great rebound) anvil. You could even grind different radii or semicircle and V swage on the edge 180* opposite, make your anvil stand so the block drops down in a trough to secure it. It could be be a simple or compound radius depending on what you want. Definitely grind 3” of that face into a nice radius for moving metal faster, simalar to Brian’s. Id orient they way you wanted and Frosty suggested (that mass under your hammer helps keep it immobile so energy goes into your work and not driving the anvil away from the hammer). Something you can’t do with mild steel plate anvil, and the hardened anvils rebound does lessen your fatigue.Ĥ140 heat treated with professional equipment and methods can get you to 55rc or higher. Definitely not required, but it’s a deep hardening steel that you can take advantage of. If it’s cheap enough I’d get it hardened, but that’s just me. Is it a professional heat treater you know? What did they quote you? but thank you for letting me know about not needing hardened. I was planning on setting it on its side, and using the 4 x 9-1/2" as my striking face. Don't get in a hurry and don't turn your back on a new anvil, brand new tools are a nice thing. Well they are but while you're polishing your skills and BANKING product sales you're shopping for an anvil that'll put a smile on your face. Use the plate while you're plying the TPAAAT, selling products, those things you think of as practice projects. If it comes to truing up a long piece you can do it easily on a vertical face. Honest a large face is attractive but you'll only really use an area just a little larger than the hammer face. Laying it flat is a mistake there isn't anything you're going to need that much area for. On edge it'll give you a lot of depth of rebound making it really effective moving metal. Mike: You don't need to harden the 4140 plate to make a good anvil it might not be successful and cost quite a bit.
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